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Omron (Mac floppy drive eject)
gearmotor detailed data
All the data that's fit to
print
Manufacturer
Omron
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Source
Salvage; eject motor
(Omron R2DG-38) extracted from Macintosh
PC floppy disk drive; these drives are
often available via Ebay
or computer swap meets
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Comments
These are good little
motors for the price, if a bit bulky
compared to some other options. Note that
with a bit of patience, you can usually
find surplus Mac floppy drives for $2-3
(US) on Ebay
or at swap meets.
These are very rugged
and versatile little motors -- very good
for walkers
and tracking
heads.
Either a Sony internal
or external floppy drive will yield the
same hardware (so buy whatever's cheaper);
only floppy drives for Macs have this
motor, though. Meanwhile, here's what the
floppy drive mechanism itself looks
like:
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Floppy eject motors need to be
"hacked" before you use them on a robot. I always
cut off the cross-hatched pieces in the drawing
above (just to minimize the motor's size). You
definitely need to pry up the green circuit board
and remove the small metal contact switch
underneath it, as well as the one or two resistors
on the circuit board. It's also cheap insurance to
install a small (0.22 uF or so) filter capacitor in
the resistor's place (across the motor's power
leads). I have a detailed tutorial on all these
steps elsewhere.
These motors aren't quite as
efficient as Nihon
motors, but are very good for their size and cost.
Since the starting voltage is relatively high for
these guys (they're really not useable below 3.0
V), you'll most likely use these for
battery-powered projects.
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This page presents all the data from my testing of two
examples of the Omron gear motor salvageable
from Macintosh floppy drives. The test procedure I used is
described in detail elsewhere.
I tested two copies of this motor in two configurations
-- with only minimal modifications (removal of internal
"limit switch"), and fully "hacked" (two internal resistors
also removed). The resistors (2 x 470 Ohm 1/2 watt
resistors) are there to provide "dynamic braking" when the
limit switch is tripped; in the motor's original use (i.e.,
to eject floppies), this makes sure that the motor stops at
the same position, repeatedly. We don't need this function,
so the resistors' waste of energy doesn't buy us
anything.
What removal of the resistors does do is
significantly increase the motor's efficiency, and decrease
its current draw. But perhaps I should let the numbers speak
for themselves...
Motor "raw" (minimal mods):
Voltage
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No-load Current (mA)
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No-load Speed (deg/sec)
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Efficiency (deg / mW-sec)
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0.5
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11.4
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0
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0
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1.0
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20.9
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0
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0
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1.5
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31.9
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0
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0
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2.0
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44.7
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0
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0
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2.5
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59
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0
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0
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2.5
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25
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47.23
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0.9157
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3
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28.5
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75.9
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0.8877
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4
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34.6
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107.1
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0.7738
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5
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41.2
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142.3
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0.6908
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Motor "hacked" (internal resistors removed):
Voltage
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No-load Current (mA)
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No-load Speed (deg/sec)
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Efficiency (deg / mW-sec)
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0.5
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9.3
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0
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0
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1.0
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18.3
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0
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0
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1.5
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28
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0
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0
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2.0
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37.1
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0
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0
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2.5
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50.3
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0
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0
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2.5
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15.1
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62.9
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1.6672
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3
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16
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77.25
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1.6094
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4
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18
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109.76
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1.5244
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5
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19.9
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141.73
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1.4244
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